Monday, 23 January 2012

The Shipping News



 A couple of months back we were assaulted in our garden by the sort of noxious vapours that you usually only experience when crossing a city bridge in India. Wafts of this sulphurous odour would come with a sudden change of wind, and have us reaching for the incense. In due course, it turned out to be a bedraggled length of mango timber, older than Methuselah, lying next to the garden. I asked our landlord, Sandeep, who at once denied being able to smell anything untoward, and explained that it was his new boat. I could only grimace at the rank black log, unable to imagine how it could ever be sea worthy.
The boat remained dormant for a few weeks until a wild-looking man appeared at the house. If India had an adult film industry in the 70’s, this man could well have been a relic of that scene: skanky polyester tracksuit bottoms, bouffant mullet, strong moustache, and a wifebeater vest which had stretched until the straps were thin as vermicelli, tracing a line several inches shy of his nipples.
‘Car painter’ Sandeep announced. ‘Not many many here, Agonda, Parvem, Chaudi.Hard to find one.’
Odd, I thought, since Sandeep doesn’t own a car.
This marked the beginning of a ten day period of unprecedented household tension. In order to build the rest of the smelly boat, the untamed car-penter had insisted on a day rate. This was a decisive factor in the resultant glacial work rate and the consequent stress on Sandeep’s part. Every day the carpenter would be loafing in the yard next to the incomplete boat, in various stages of repose (reclining, burping, farting, scratching his belly, fully sleeping), whilst Sandeep and his friends would labour away with planes and drills.
The man’s ample quiff seemed to act as a deflector shield, rendering him impervious to every insult, persuasion, imploration and threat. At the rare times when the carpenter would be actively involved, it would require Sandeep to be poised over him, staring at the back of his skull.
Through the whole process, the carpenter remained blithely stoic, whereas Sandeep, by contrast, was visibly falling apart. Having to keep a constant vigil over a man who remained resolutely indolent had driven Sandeep to pre-noon drinking. Even a passing ‘How’s it going?’ would be enough to trigger a red-eyed deluge of scathing recrimination about the man’s constant skiving.
Any available means were employed to coax the carpenter to work. A belly as proud and fulsome as his is seldom unearned, and so it was that all day he would devour whole plates of fish, quaff warm beers in seconds and virtually eat cigarettes whole. As anyone would pass innocently by, the carpenter would flag them down with hand-to-mouth or swigging gestures, whilst making Chewbacka sounds. The ground around the half-boat was littered equally with woodchippings, Kingfisher bottles, fag butts and tali plates.
The entire boat and boat-making process betrayed not a single traceof modernity. Planks of wood were heated over a coconut fire and bowed, then sewn onto the dugout hull with string. Nothing more hi-tech than an adze was used. A crude outrigger was lashed to the bow with more string. It would be hard to imagine that the technology has changed in the last couple of millennia.
On day seven, Sandeep looked up and saw me watching him watching the carpenter. The carpenter immediately asked for a beer. Sandeep winced, and stared gloomily at the unfinished sidings of the boat. For something to say, I asked where the carpenter came from. Sandeep gestured dismissively into the bushes with his chin. The jungle? It seemed likely enough. “No, Salari. Village name: Salari.” Perhaps the perfect hometown for a man so focused on his own payscale.
Days dragged on and the determined inertia of the Salari man had, if anything, hardened. Sandeep wore a haunted look, but, to our communal surprise, suddenly announced the blessing of the boat. The boat puja, it seemed, did not require a finished boat, but would benefit greatly from an audience and an aged guest of honour.
Luckily for everyone involved, my father, notoriously, will dress up in ethnic garb at the drop of a Nehru hat. Off he went to get ready to play the role of Brahmin, coming back shortly after, announcing that his chalwar chemise was in the wash. Before anyone’s disappointment could take hold, Sandeep emerged from his house with a bright orange synthetic two-piece outfit as a replacement. A sense of general glee pervaded the scene.
A plastic garden chair was arranged for the high-caste, Tango-themed VIP, whilst the rest of us clustered around the incomplete craft. A few Konkani words of blessing were uttered by Sandeep, as he smeared red and yellow powder on the boat and everyone’s forheads. My dad was enjoying the sartorial absurdity of his position almost as much as the rest of us.
“Hang on. Why am I dressed up like this, when Sandeep’s stood here in a grubby towel?”
The carpenter looked on with the pride of a new father, smoking a pilfered cigarette. Some sugary prasad was passed round. Sandeep announced that the boat would be named jointly after his daughter and Max. There was a pause, into which my father gamely leapt with a shimmer of polyester.
“May we hereby confer onto this fine vessel all the good fortune in the world, and may it henceforth bring the utmost prosperity to all who set foot upon her!”
“Good words, Daddy. Superb.” Murmured Sandeep in appreciation.
My dad, adjusting his costume, ventured, “Sandeep, in England, the launching of a new ship involves smashing a bottle of wine against the side...”
“Not my boat.”

In this celebratory atmosphere, it was easy to forget that the boat wasn’t actually yet ready to sail. We disperse, and the working/loafing/supervision routine resumed in earnest.

Days later, just when we expect to find Sandeep dancing over the adze-hacked body of the carpenter, there he is, paddling the boat, pootling about proudly in the river, beckoning one and all to come for an inaugural cruise. Sandeep’s smile covered three quarters of his whole face, free at last of the slothful carpainter, captain of his brand new vessel.